Naples - 2 nights
We decided to take an overnight train from Palermo to our next stop - just two nights - in Naples. We are spending a day in Pompeii - just self guided. So we will have a partial day in Naples, which I think will likely be plenty of time in the city before moving on to Rome.
We booked the train well in advance - I think we were still in Panama. So it only cost about 150 euro for the two of us. We have 2 berth sleeper car - there is no ‘in car’ bathroom and I didn’t see that as an option on the train at all. But, we survived the shared hole in the floor on an overnight train in India, I’m sure this will be better.
Interestingly, this train actually gets loaded onto a ferry to get from the island of Sicily, where we have been for a month over to mainland Italy.
Ooph. So, I’m not sure I can recommend that one. Was it the cheap option, absolutely, did I arrive refreshed - absolutely not.
First, make sure you explain your class of ticket to the attendant helping with directions. To do this, you will need a screenshot of your emailed ticket, not the one that loads on your phone or has a QR code. Our seats - or at least one of them - didn’t exist and was in the wrong class when we got there. I had shown the person and explained it was a 4 couch and we were supposed to be in two - she said it was right and to go there. I just assumed that they overbooked what we had and moved us to a 4 couch, but it would just be two of us. Of course, that wasn’t what happened and someone was booked in the room also. Thankfully, they had waited for an attendant and we were moved after a bit of discussion.
The room looks just as advertised - do note that there ARE separate mens and womens toilets at the end of the car - this is helpful, for all the usual reasons of men’s inability to keep a bathroom clean….
We got settled in the room, the beds were pre-made and decently padded. The service comes with some water, soap, toothbrush/paste, and eyemask for each person. There is a sink in the room, it is under the ledge of the counter and the faucet flips up. I do not believe this is potable water. The light switch to turn off the mirror light is a small round button that looks almost like a rivet on the mirror frame right close to the window (we were facing backwards of the direction of the train).
A bit after midnight - just after drifting off - the train stops in Messina - unfortunately, lots of very loud passengers got on here and there was a lot of commotion for a long period trying to get everyone in the right spot. As I mentioned, the numbering seemed to be off on the tickets. The loading of the train onto the boat was fairly quick, but with a lot of back and forth. This ended up being the smoothest part of the entire trip.
The rest of the train ride I simply couldn’t sleep, it was so jarring a ride and you could really feel the speed because it was so bumpy. We ended up at Naples and getting an uber was relatively easy. I did try and get a taxi and they just pointed another direction, maybe it wasn’t worth their time because it was only 1.7 km away…
Anyway - neither of us got much sleep. I would highly recommend that you book a hotel for the night before, so you can just crash (unless you have super sleep powers like my sister).
We stayed at the Decumani Hotel de Charme - I think it was a Rick Steve’s recommendation. We used some credit card hotel annual credit for the majority of the stay and it included breakfast. You can order good coffee from the attendants. It was all fine - nothing amazing, but not a disappointment either. Great location for seeing the sites of Naples.
Naples was jam packed with people, shops, and bars/restaurants. We did find a really great negroni bar, just around the corner - Archeobar - Negroneria Napoletana.
The main sites we hit were a few churches and the Naples Archeologic Museum. Since we were heading to Pompeii, we wanted to see all the stuff that was essentially looted from the original excavation - this is really a must see, if you plan to go to Pompeii. We went first thing in the morning at opening and spent a couple hours - we listened to the Rick Steve’s walking tour and then walked through a few more areas.
I can also recommend a delicious veg forward restaurants just across from the Archeologic Museum. Lazzarelle bistrot - women owned and plant focused. Their bowls are just delicious and very filling. Unfortunately, we were so hungry, I think we forgot to take photos - but it was really yummy (and large portions). It Is in this lovely old building though :)
We also ate pizza at Sorbillo - delicious pizza and GREAT prices, but service was pretty terrible. Place was packed and we went early around 5pm. Make sure you look up the menu ahead of time, if you can’t read Italian. My translator apps (yes plural) I couldn’t get to work in the restaurant - people next to us had the same issue. They do have take-out and a nicely lined box, so would probably recommend that option too, if you have a space to eat.
Overall, I did like Naples, but was so tired from a night of no sleep, that we didn’t end up seeing or doing much. The next post will be about Pompeii - unfortunately, the calamity of trains continue.
