Rome
We spent a wonderful 10 days in Rome - I have visited before and really fell in love. For Peter, this is his first time here. Now visiting sites can be crowded and expensive, so we chose a few things that we really wanted to do and the rest we decided to just walk past or do something else.
We stayed between the Monti neighborhood and the terminii station - this is technically still Monti, but not the crazy busy heart of that neighborhood. I stayed there last time with my son and his girlfriend when I took them on their high school graduation trip - it was lovely, but I’m glad we are a bit further away. It is even more popular now, but - I have to admit, much cleaner!
We stayed in an airbnb with a nice patio and small kitchen - I would stay there again. The entire place is rentals, but they do a pretty good job of limiting outdoor access. I can image that it would be a bit too loud in the summer though. Grocery was a bit hit or miss - I’d recommend the Pam Local, better selections and kept well stocked.
Overall, the last few days we had already hit everything we really wanted to see, so we took a couple days to slow down a bit and relax. Had I to do it over again, I would have booked just the week or maybe 5 days in Rome. But given it has been 10 years since I came back, it will probably be a while before I make it here again.
Overview of Our Days in Rome
Day 1 (Feb 18)
We arrived in Rome around 1 pm and settled into the charming Monti neighborhood, wasting no time heading out for our first wander. Within minutes, we caught our first glimpse of the Colosseum. After a slightly chaotic (but very Italian-feeling) grocery run, we unpacked and eased into the trip. I had a bit of work to catch up on, so we kept it low-key and turned in early.
Day 2 (Feb 19)
A slower start to the day with laundry and on-and-off rain. We still managed a walk past the Colosseum and into the Roman Forum area, soaking in the layers of history despite the gray skies. The afternoon shifted back into remote work mode with meetings. Remote work is a constant reminder that while I get to see some amazing places, I’m still working and living in the spaces we visit.
Day 3 (Feb 20)
One of our fuller days. We started with a church visit and the catacombs. This can be a full day trip on its own, particularly heading outside the city, I had done that on my last trip and it was great. This time we went to the Basillica of San Clemente - not far from the Colosseum. It cost 10 euro to walk down the layers of history - they have nice signage explaining everything in four languages. It wasn’t very busy, which was nice and it was a beautiful church - though under restoration.
Then we made our way past ancient baths and the Circus Maximus before heading into Trastevere for lunch. We hit up Aromaticus - it was delicious and they also had a spot in the Monti neighborhood. Be prepared though, most people had reservations or had to sit outside - we got there before the kitchen opened, so got a table.
After wandering back toward the center of Rome to Altare della Patria (and seeing the hordes of tourists) we briefly stopped home before heading out again—this time just exploring our own street further, coming across more churches and fountains.
Day 4 (Feb 21)
A classic Rome sightseeing day - the key was to get out EARLY. We left before 7 am and were rewarded with free access to the Trevi fountain and non-packed Spanish Steps. If you arrive after 9am, you have to pay 2 euro per person to get close to the fountain - it was just as packed as normal and people were standing in line. Go early or very late and see it free.
We spent time wandering through the peaceful Borghese Gardens. Since it was Saturday, the city felt especially alive. We also stopped by the Shelly House, adding a little literary history to the mix. After the Shelly House, we made our way to the Borghese Gallery - we did not have tickets, but it was noted a couple places that they allow in 13 people without tickets every hour. This actually turned out to be true, but as we didn’t arrive before the museum opened, the line was 20+ people long. Once the first hour passed and they didn’t let those in the front of the line in, we figured they didn’t start that until the second hour of opening and we would have been in the following group, so decided to skip it. Will save that for my must do the next time I’m in Rome.
Day 5 (Feb 22)
We visited the Non-Catholic Cemetery - Shelly is a favorite of Peter’s. We walked through town, just seeing the sites and enjoying how very walkable Rome really is. Shelly house post info here.
Day 6 (Feb 23)
A day dedicated to church-hopping—one of the best ways to experience Rome. My favorite church from the last time I was there was the Church of Saint Louis of the French. The first time I saw it was on my first trip to europe (sans smart phone or cellular connection). I remember it being overwhelmingly ornate with some gorgeous art (I didn’t realize at the time, it holds some famous Carravagio’s) and it was nicely cool. I was there in summer last time and it was toasty. More info on churches in Rome with famous art in this post.
Day 7 (Feb 24)
We visited Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli, which is where the relics of Saint Peter’s chains during his crucifixion are held. There also happens to be a Michelangelo's statue of Moses. Later, we balanced it out with some shopping back in Monti, returning to our favorite neighborhood streets.
Day 8 (Feb 25)
Vatican day. We spent time exploring the area more deeply, taking in both the scale and detail that make it such a unique place in the world. More on some thoughts to skip the mass lines here.
Days 9–10 (Feb 26–27)
By this point, we had seen most of the major sights, so we slowed down. These days were about wandering, revisiting favorite spots, and simply enjoying the rhythm of the neighborhood—long walks, good food, and no real agenda.
Day 11 (Feb 28)
Porta Portese Flea Market in Travestere - I do not recommend this. You are literally packed into this multiple kilometer long path of stalls selling essentially all the things good will couldn’t sell. And I do mean packed in - you will get up close and personal with everyone else in the area and it is in, what appeared to be an old drainage ditch/part alley with zero exits. That sign you see down the way with a pedestrian crossing is a fake out and not an exit. If you MUST visit the flea market, it has spilled out onto adjoining streets where there is much more room. Simply walk past the main entrance and go up the hill and take a left. You will see more stalls and won’t suffer as much from the crowds.
March 1
On to Portugal—ready for the next chapter of the journey.
